As of 2026, this Belgrade food guide covers 15 restaurants by category — including Walter, Loki Roštilj, Ćirino Drvce. See prices, locations and must-try dishes below.
Belgrade is Belgrade is hearty Balkan grill and kafana culture — cevapi, pljeskavica, karadjordjeva, and rakija — in bohemian Skadarlija taverns and along the Sava/Danube, famously cheap and lively. We've organized 15 restaurants across 5 categories. Each entry includes prices, hours, local tips, and a Google Maps link so you can plan straight from the page.
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Click pins to see restaurant info · 15 restaurants
Ćevapi, pljeskavica, and ražnjići off the charcoal grill with kajmak and onion — the heart of casual Belgrade eating
Walter
Валтер · Vračar
1
#1
MUST TRY
Beef ćevapi (portion of 5 or 10) with kajmak and onion, somun flatbread, ajvar
A long-running ćevapi specialist on Vojislava Ilića in Vračar, known for Sarajevo-style ćevapi made from beef and served with homemade kajmak and onion. You order a portion of 5 or 10 depending on appetite — simple, smoky, and consistently good.
$5-12
(RSD 500-1,300)
09:00-23:00 (daily)
Local tip: Order the 10-piece with kajmak and a side of ajvar — the kajmak (clotted-cream cheese) is what sets a good ćevap apart. It's a no-frills grill, not a sit-down restaurant; cash is handy. A little out of the center in Vračar but worth the short ride for the city's reference ćevapi.
Pljeskavica, mixed grill (ćevapi, ražnjići, sausage), stuffed pljeskavica with kajmak
A popular grill in Zemun doing generous charcoal-grilled pljeskavica and mixed roštilj — the kind of hearty, meat-forward meal Belgrade does best, at local prices. A good stop to pair with a Gardoš Tower visit.
$6-15
(RSD 600-1,600)
10:00-23:00 (daily)
Local tip: The stuffed pljeskavica (oozing kajmak or cheese) is the move if you're hungry — one is a full meal. Portions are large, so a mixed grill easily feeds two. Pair with a Zemun riverside walk along the Danube quay.
An open-late grill near the center serving charcoal-grilled pljeskavica and ćevapi made with free-range bull meat — juicy, smoky, and a favorite for a satisfying cheap meal or a late-night bite after a night out.
$5-12
(RSD 500-1,300)
Open late / extended hours (check current times)
Local tip: Famous as a late-night refuel — the smoky pljeskavica hits the spot after the splavovi. Cash is simplest at the counter. Don't expect ambiance; this is about the grill, not the décor.
The most famous kafana on Skadarlija, opened in 1864 in a building once used by a hatmaker (its three-pleated-hat sign gives it the name 'Three Hats'). Traditional Serbian cooking with nightly live tamburica music; past guests range from Tito to visiting musicians and heads of state.
$15-35
(RSD 1,600-3,700)
11:00-24:00 (daily)
Local tip: It's touristy but the atmosphere and music are the point — go for the live tamburica and the Skadarlija setting rather than cutting-edge food. The karađorđeva (kajmak-stuffed breaded veal) is the classic order. Book ahead on summer weekends; expect RSD 2,000-3,500 per person with drinks.
Grilled meats, sarma, pasulj (bean stew), national dishes, rakija
One of Skadarlija's oldest and best-known taverns ('Two Deer'), a fixture of the bohemian street with a large terrace, traditional Serbian menu, and live music in the evenings. A reliable choice for the full Skadarlija kafana experience.
$15-35
(RSD 1,600-3,700)
11:00-24:00 (daily)
Local tip: Sit on the terrace on a warm evening for the street atmosphere and the strolling musicians. Order family-style — grilled meats plus sarma or pasulj to share. Like its neighbors it caters to visitors, so go for the experience and the music.
Grilled platters, ražnjići, traditional starters, live starogradska music
A long-established Skadarlija kafana (opened 1969) on the cobbled street, serving traditional Serbian dishes with the same live-music, old-Belgrade atmosphere as its older neighbors. Its name means roughly 'there are good days.'
$14-32
(RSD 1,500-3,400)
11:00-24:00 (daily)
Local tip: A solid Skadarlija alternative if Tri Šešira and Dva Jelena are full. The evenings with live starogradska (old-town) music are the draw. Reserve on weekends and pace the rakija — the toasts add up.
Serbian classics, grilled meats, sarma, Serbian bean stew
Belgrade's oldest surviving kafana, dating to 1823, opposite the Orthodox Cathedral in Stari Grad. Famously it ended up named simply '?' after a dispute over using the cathedral's name. Low wooden stools, an old-tavern feel, and straightforward Serbian home cooking.
$10-25
(RSD 1,000-2,600)
08:00-24:00 (daily)
Local tip: Less of a music-and-tourism show than Skadarlija and more of a genuine old kafana — come for the history and the atmosphere. The traditional dishes are honest and well-priced. A 5-minute walk from the fortress and Knez Mihailova.
New Balkan cuisine and riverside dining — locally rooted cooking with a modern twist, at a fraction of Western prices
Iva New Balkan Cuisine
Iva · Vračar
8
#1
MUST TRY
Tasting/à la carte New Balkan dishes, modern takes on Serbian classics, all-day breakfast
A Michelin Bib Gourmand bistro in Vračar near the Temple of Saint Sava, set in the atrium of a renovated 1934 building with a garden. The 'New Balkan Cuisine' approach reworks local ingredients and Serbian traditions with a light, modern touch — and serves breakfast all day.
$25-60
(RSD 2,700-6,400)
09:00-23:00 (check current hours)
Local tip: Belgrade's reference for modern Balkan cooking and excellent value for the quality (a Michelin Bib Gourmand). Book ahead for dinner. Pair it with the Temple of Saint Sava and the Tesla Museum for a Vračar day. The garden is lovely in warm weather.
All-you-can-eat Balkan small plates, chicken skewers, ćevapi, meats with ajvar and kajmak
A lively modern-Balkan restaurant at Beton Hala on the Sava riverfront, doing small plates in an all-you-can-eat format — meats, cheeses, ajvar, chicken skewers, and Serbian ćevapi — with river views and a buzzy atmosphere.
$28-65
(RSD 3,000-6,900)
12:00-24:00 (daily)
Local tip: The all-you-can-eat small-plates format is a fun, sociable way to graze across Balkan dishes. Get a riverside table at golden hour. It fills up — book ahead, especially on weekends. A polished, crowd-pleasing intro to modern Balkan flavors.
A stylish riverfront restaurant at Beton Hala blending Latin and Asian flavors in a multi-course tasting format — prawns, squid, and fusion plates — in a sleek setting by the Sava. A change of pace from traditional Serbian fare.
$28-60
(RSD 3,000-6,400)
12:00-24:00 (daily)
Local tip: Not Serbian food, but a polished riverside night out and part of the Beton Hala scene. The tasting menu is the signature. Good for a date or a group; reserve a window table. Pairs well with drinks afterward at the nearby riverfront bars.
Burek, pita, and pastries from the pekara, plus produce, cheese, and kajmak from Belgrade's green markets
Pekara (Belgrade Bakeries)
Пекара · Citywide
11
#1
MUST TRY
Burek (meat or cheese), gibanica, pita, yogurt, krofne (doughnuts)
Belgrade's bakeries (pekara) are on nearly every corner and are where locals grab breakfast and snacks — flaky burek (filo pastry with meat or cheese), gibanica (cheese pie), and pastries, traditionally washed down with a drinkable yogurt.
$1-5
(RSD 100-500)
Many open early; some 24-hour
Local tip: A wedge of burek and a yogurt is the classic Serbian breakfast for under RSD 400 ($3.75). Burek is sold by weight — point and order a portion. Cash is easiest. A cheap, authentic, and very Belgrade way to start the day or refuel between sights.
Local produce, kajmak, cheese, honey, ajvar, seasonal fruit
Belgrade's best-known green market, in Vračar — a lively open-air market of produce, cheese, kajmak, honey, and homemade ajvar. A window into everyday Serbian food and a great spot to assemble a cheap picnic or pick up edible souvenirs.
Local tip: Come in the morning when it's busiest and freshest. Buy kajmak and ajvar from a producer's stall to taste the real versions of what you've had in restaurants. Bring cash and small notes. Pairs naturally with the Temple of Saint Sava and Iva, all in Vračar.
A central bar dedicated to rakija, pouring dozens of varieties of Serbian fruit brandy — plum, apricot, quince, grape, and more — with knowledgeable staff who'll guide you to the right one. A good place to taste a flight and learn the national spirit.
$3-20
(RSD 300-2,100)
10:00-24:00 (daily)
Local tip: Order a tasting flight to sample across styles rather than committing to one — the staff's recommendations are worth following. Šljivovica (plum) is the benchmark; quince (dunja) is a softer entry point. Pace yourself: rakija is strong (often 40%+).
Small-batch craft rakija and liqueurs, tasting and distillery tour
Belgrade's first open-type craft distillery, in Dorćol, producing more than 20 types of small-batch rakija and liqueurs. You can taste the range and book a tour to see how craft rakija is made — a more contemporary take on the traditional spirit.
$5-25
(RSD 500-2,700)
By tasting/tour (check current schedule)
Local tip: Book a tasting or tour to understand rakija beyond the kafana shot — the small-batch fruit brandies are a step up in refinement. A good pairing with a Dorćol bar crawl. Bottles make excellent gifts to take home.
Craft beer, cocktails, local bars and street-food spots in a former brewery yard
A former brewery complex off Skadarska turned into a courtyard of independent bars, clubs, and street-food spots — a year-round local favorite for a relaxed night out, away from the touristy strips and the seasonal river clubs.
$3-15
(RSD 300-1,600)
Evenings until late (varies by venue)
Local tip: This is where locals go for a low-key, year-round night out, indoors and out — a good alternative when the summer splavovi aren't running. Wander between the bars in the courtyard to find your spot. Drinks are cheap; cards mostly accepted.
Modern Balkan tasting (Iva, Bib Gourmand) + Beton Hala riverside dining.
Frequently Asked Questions
Common questions about food and restaurants in Belgrade.
What Serbian dishes should I try first?
Start with the grill (roštilj): ćevapi (small beef sausages) and pljeskavica (the Serbian burger), served with kajmak (clotted-cream cheese), raw onion, and lepinja flatbread — try them at Walter or a charcoal grill like Ćirino Drvce for RSD 500-1,600 ($5-15). Then have karađorđeva šnicla (breaded veal rolled around kajmak — a Serbian invention) at a kafana. Add ajvar (roasted-pepper relish), sarma (cabbage rolls), and burek (filo pastry) from a bakery.
What is a kafana and which ones should I visit?
A kafana is a traditional Serbian tavern with hearty cooking, rakija, and often live tamburica music. The famous old ones cluster on Skadarlija, the cobbled bohemian street: Tri Šešira (Three Hats, 1864) and Dva Jelena (Two Deer) are the headliners, with Ima Dana (1969) nearby. They're touristy but atmospheric — go for the music and setting. For a more low-key, historic kafana, Question Mark (?), Belgrade's oldest (1823), sits by the Cathedral. Budget RSD 1,500-3,500 ($14-33) per person with drinks.
Where do I find the best ćevapi and grilled meat?
Walter in Vračar is the reference for beef ćevapi with kajmak (a portion of 5 or 10). For pljeskavica and mixed grill, Loki in Zemun does generous charcoal-grilled plates, and Ćirino Drvce near the center is a beloved late-night spot using free-range bull meat. A full mixed grill (ćevapi, ražnjići, sausage) rarely tops RSD 1,600 ($15) and easily feeds two.
Is there good fine dining, and is it affordable?
Yes — and it's a relative bargain. Iva New Balkan Cuisine (Vračar) is a Michelin Bib Gourmand bistro doing modern Balkan cooking in a restored 1934 building. Ambar at Beton Hala on the Sava does an all-you-can-eat modern-Balkan small-plates format with river views, and Toro nearby does Latin-Asian tasting menus. These run RSD 2,700-6,900 ($28-65) per person — far below equivalent Western European prices.
What is rakija and where should I drink it?
Rakija is Serbian fruit brandy — the national spirit, usually 40%+ — most classically šljivovica (plum), plus apricot (kajsija), quince (dunja), and grape (loza). Rakia Bar in the center pours dozens of varieties and does tasting flights with helpful staff; Belgrade Urban Distillery (BUD) in Dorćol makes small-batch craft versions and runs tastings/tours. Accepting an offered rakija is a friendly gesture in Serbia — the toast is 'živeli'.
Where do locals eat cheaply?
Bakeries (pekara) for burek and pastries — a burek and yogurt is the classic breakfast for under RSD 400 ($3.75). Charcoal grills for ćevapi and pljeskavica. And green markets like Kalenić in Vračar for produce, cheese, kajmak, and ajvar — perfect for a cheap picnic or edible souvenirs. Most of this is cash-friendly, so carry small dinar notes.
Is the food smoking-friendly, and are reservations needed?
Many kafanas, bars, and cafés in Belgrade still allow indoor smoking, so sit on a terrace or ask for a non-smoking section if that matters to you. Reservations aren't essential at grills or bakeries, but they're worth making for Skadarlija kafanas on summer weekends and for fine dining like Iva, Ambar, and Toro, which fill up.
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Jimmy Kong
TripPick founder · Travel content creator
Based in Chiang Mai for 8+ years, with 30+ countries visited across Southeast Asia, Japan, and Europe. Every detail in this guide is primary-source verified as of April 2026, with prices auto-refreshed via live exchange rate APIs. This isn't AI-generated boilerplate — it's written from the perspective of someone who has actually been there.
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